Pickpockets in Rome: new solutions to an old problem
- February 10, 2025
- Uncategorized
Just last month, we introduced out guests and readers to Minerva 5, our newest alcove studio right by the Pantheon.
As the name suggests, this accommodation takes its name from another of Rome’s must-see landmarks, the Basilica of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva. However, we realized that despite its central location, fascinating history, and incredible art, this is not a place that has been impacted by mass tourism. We’re here to change that, and hopefully change some visitors’ itineraries with the story of a unique building!
If you’ve read this post, you’ll know by now that the area still known as Campo Marzio has always been a hub for “expats” since times immemorial. Situated outside the “Pomerium”, the area traditionally considered to be where Rome was originally founded, it was viewed as neutral ground, much like Switzerland is today. Foreign travelers who stayed here brought their own religions with them, so much so that temples to exotic gods started coexisting with Roman ones in this area.
This is how a temple to Minerva came to stand side by side with one to the Egyptian goddess Isis. While the “cohabitation” wasn’t always smooth – but that’s a story for another post – this is exactly why Egyptian statues or names come from this area of the city center, and also why the Basilica of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva got its name – it is literally built above that ancient temple.
The basilica has other undeniable merits: one of them is that it is the only Gothic church in the city. Once extremely fashionable, most of the landmarks in this style were eventually rebuilt to suit newer architectural trends (baroque, anyone?). The interior reflects different eras, incorporating various styles, the result of work done after the church was damaged by the overflow of the Tiber River (a common occurrence before the river dams were built).
Despite its magnificent artwork and peaceful appearance, the church was no stranger to violence, as the convent adjacent to the basilica was once the seat of the Holy Inquisition in Rome: it has seen many a summary trial. It was here in 1633 that Galileo Galilei, suspected of heresy, renounced his astronomical theories. He died in exile a few years later, having lost his eyesight.
One of the most remarkable features of the Basilica of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva is the fact that it houses one of Michelangelo’s works. Despite this, very few people know that this masterpiece is even here. The statue of Christ the Redeemer, which Michelangelo created when he was just 21 years old, is a must see! So is the tomb of St. Catherine of Siena, or the world-famous marble baby elephant, completed in the square opposite the church by Ercole Ferrata from a drawing by Gian Lorenzo Bernini.
The Dominican monks of the convent there were very critical of the project, so Bernini wanted the elephant to show its… backside to the convent itself – as a sign of disrespect for their opinions. A precedent, no doubt, for what was later done with the statue of Garibaldi, facing the opposite direction of the Vatican!
There is so much more that could be said about the Basilica, but we don’t want this to turn into a Wikipedia page! We can only encourage you to take some time out of your busy Roman days to come visit this absolute stunner of a church!
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